Day 21 - South Harris and on to North Uist

We left our accommodation in Stornoway before 9 to do some sightseeing in South Harris before our ferry at 14:10.  It was a lot brighter today but we still had a few showers but the wind has dropped.  We stopped a couple of times at viewpoints we missed yesterday.  The road goes along a mountain pass in  North Harris and the mountain tops were shrouded in mist.


 
Viewpoint over Loch Seaforth 

 
Mist covering the mountains 


South Harris is like a very large headland at the bottom of Lewis and North Harris with a wide causeway connecting North and South just south of Tarbert.
 
Our first stop was Luskintye Beach on the west coast.   Its a good thing we were early.  We parked ok and went for a walk but when we came back the car park was full and cars were still arriving.  Its the most people we have seen in a single spot on the island.  

 
Luskintyre Beach 



 
Waterfall onto Luskintyre Beach 

 
Little stream flowing to Luskintyre Beach 

We passed several more beautiful sandy beaches on the way to the ferry.

 
Nisabost Beach 

 
Traigh Mhor beach 

 
Seilebost Beach 

 
Salt marshes
 

 
Salt marshes 

We took a look at the ferry terminal.  There were some shops recommended including an apothecary but as it's Sunday everything is shut.  

We went on to St Clements church at Rodel a few miles away..  It was built in the 13th century by the MacLeod clan and has been damaged and restored twice since

 
St Clements Church 

 
Tomb inside the church 

 
Carvings found in the church. 

The ferry from Leverburgh, Harris to Berneray left on time and took an hour. It was a lovely trip with the boat weaving in and out of tiny islands in the Sound of Harris.  The islands that we were heading to were in full sunshine but within 30 minutes down came the rain and we couldnt even see them.  This happened a few times but when we docked at Berneray the sun was shining.  
 
 
The Calmac Ferry arriving at Levenburgh 

 
Little islands between Levenburgh and Berneray 

 
Sunshine in the distance 

 
 
 
Storm Petrel? 

 
Gannet 

 
Eider Ducks 

 
 
We first explored Berneray, which is very small and quite flat starting with East Beach which looked lovely.  The main village is also called Berneray and has a little port from where the ferries used to go from. There are some thatched houses and some ruins of former crofts.  We then drove along a 2km single track road without passing places to the memorial to Giant MacKaskill who was born on Berneray but emigrated with his parents to Nova Scotia.  As a child he grew normally but in his late teens he just kept growing until he was 7'9" tall.  He was in the Guinness book of records for both height and amazing strength.  
 
 
East Beach, Berneray 

 
Thatched stone cottage 

 
Former crofthouse
 
 
 
  
Berneray harbour 

 
Giant MacAskill memorial 

 
Words on the memorial 
  
We then crossed the causeway to North Uist and on to our accommodation, stopping at an honesty shop in a telephone box on the way.  It wasnt really a shop as there were no prices and they asked for donations.  We bought a couple of Tunnocks Caramel biscuits.
 
 
Seen on the approach to the causeway between Berneray and North Uist 

 
The Causeway between Berneray and North Uist 

 
The honesty box shop 

 
Blue Plaque for Hector Morrison

 
Our accommodation is on an island called Grimsay, which is part of North Uist and joined to it by a causeway.  We overlook an inlet and there is another behind.  The people who stayed here 2 weeks ago recorded sightings of 83 different birds over a 7 day period!  So far I have 6.  Unfortunately I have also seen 2 cats on the beach chasing birds.
 
 
Our view across the inlet 

 
The accommodation is really nice with full length windows looking towards the loch.  The owners left us some bread, milk and butter and also a miniture gin, made locally with a bottle of tonic!  At the house in Skye they left a bottle of red wine.  So Paul is benefiting from all my hard work finding these places, booking them and the ferries and planning the sightseeing.  When we were left a carafe of rose wine at the pod in Badcall Bay, he insisted on sharing it with me although he doesnt like rose wine! 
 
Just ad it was getting darker the sky became very pink.  Hopefully it means a nicer day tomorrow. 




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